Honey bug chenille.
        The directions instructed that what was needed for a size 12 bug was a six-inch length of the appropriate thickness of
    chenille  (it comes in what I call regular, thick and thin; regular would be the stuff for a size 12). Strip off about half of the
    fuzz to expose the four inner cotton strands. Remove one of the four strands and then tie the remaining three, starting at
    the bend, as you would the thread for a standard fly. Wrap the chenille on the hook, ending near the eye, and tie it all off
    with a piece of floss.

       Stocked trout that had become well educated fell prey to it fairly easily. Similarly, you can catch bass and Sunnies on
    them as well. When  looked for a reason by submerging true honey bugs and similar flies made with synthetic chenille
    (of, say, the green weenie variety) I made a shocking discovery. Though the cotton chenille looks drab and ordinary
    when it's dry, or even when its wet but out of water, when it's submerged, it takes on a translucent quality, much like you
    see when you look at a squirming grub or maggot, a fresh salmon egg (not those pickled ones in the Uncle Josh's jars)
    or even a chunk of raw chicken meat. In other words, the stuff, either on purpose or by accident, has the look of living
    flesh when it's under water. By contrast, the chenille used for green weenies doesn't look nearly as good under water as
    it does when it's dry.
Tied By:
B.M.F.S.
The Original Honey Bug
Tied By:
B.M.F.S.
Green Caddis
Honey Sucker Spawn
Cream Sucker Spawn







Tied By: B.M.F.S.
Orange Caddis

Tied BY: B.M.F.S.
Crane Fly Larva







Tied By: B.M.F.S.
Hook- 4x streamer 12-16
Tail- CDC or CCT short
Body- Honey Bug
Head- Hare'e Wiggle
Dub(bloody Black)
Fat Caddis

Tied By: B.M.F.S.
Orange Spawn







Tied By: Sandfly
Bead Head Honey






Tied By: Sandfly
Woven body


Tied By: Henry Hager
Woven Body Honey Bug


Tied By: Henry Hager
Bead Head Honey







Tied By: Henry
Tied By: Henry




Woven Body